Binomial's pilot study
Guillaume Brard & Alexandre Perchat
The first motivation of a such study is to provide a "high quality" wave on the "cote basque" that could too lie within the scope of environmental and socioeconomic policy. The aim of this project is ti design in a suitable manner an artificial reef that requires careful consideration of the shape and orentation of the local bathymetry.
Firstly, we hate to define relevant characteristics of waves that means theoretical and empirical parameters in order to be able to shape the reef. After we will study propagation of swell running against the coast. Ultimately computer simulations will confirm the theoretical behaviour on the artificial reef.
III. Work plan
This is not a final plan but we will try to follow it.
1- Theoretical aspect of the problem
1.1 Current characteristics of the Sainte Barbe wave.
1.2 Definition of the characteristics and the parameters of the "ideal wave"
- 1.2.1 Galvin number.
- 1.2.2 Peel angle.
- 1.2.3 Length of the wave
- 1.2.4 Depth of the reef.
1.3 Searching for geophysical data.
- 1.3.1 Bathymetry.
- 1.3.2 Weather.
1.4 .Shape of the reef - in collaboration with the "sedimentary transport" binomial
2 - Propagation of swell
2.1 Phenomenons intervening in propagation.
2.2 Propagation of the swell running against the coast (numerical simulation)
2.3 Refraction on the reef (numerical simulation).
3 - Confirmation of parameters of the reef with numerical simulation for the most frequent swell
4 - Numerical simulation for different kind of swell