Exemples
d'observations sur des spots Hawaiiens
(sources: 1st surfing reef symposium, 1997, Sydney)
|
Spot |
Bottom Slope
s |
Breaker Height
Hb |
Wave Period
T |
Breaker Type
Index |
Surfer Velocity
(ft/sec) |
Peel Angle
(deg) |
Breaker Type |
Date |
|
Queen's |
40 |
4 |
12 |
0.035 |
18 |
60 R |
Spill |
1971 |
|
Makaha |
60 |
6 |
14 |
0.057 |
28 |
65 |
Plunge-Spill |
|
|
Pipeline |
65 |
18 |
16 |
0.14 |
45 |
35 |
Plunge |
|
|
Sunset |
100 |
18 |
16 |
0.22 |
43 |
40 |
Plunge-Spill |
|
|
Canoes |
34 |
6 |
20 |
0.016 |
40R |
Spill-Plunge |
Exemples d'observations sur des spots Hawaiiens
|
Date |
Site |
Peel Angle (deg) |
Length of ride (m) |
Breaking depth (m) |
Bottom slope (h:v) |
H (m) |
T (sec.) |
K |
Ride Type |
Breaker Type |
|
1976 |
Duranbah |
70 |
250 |
3 |
67 |
2 |
12 |
0.0289 |
L |
Plunge |
|
1995 |
Duranbah |
60 |
200 |
3 |
200 |
3 |
12 |
0.1294 |
Spill |
|
|
1996 |
Cool |
43 |
300 |
2 |
100 |
1 |
12 |
0.0216 |
R |
Plunge |
|
1995 |
Marley |
45 |
150 |
0.5 |
200 |
0.5 |
12 |
0.0216 |
R |
Plunge |
|
1995 |
Kirra |
30 |
300 |
1 |
100 |
1 |
12 |
0.0216 |
R |
Plunge |
|
1995 |
Rainbow |
45 |
200 |
1 |
100 |
1 |
12 |
0.0216 |
R |
Plunge |
PS: Pour le Peel Angle, R signifie une vague qui déroule en droite et L en gauche.